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	<title>climbergirl blog &#187; NM</title>
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	<link>http://blog.climbergirl.com</link>
	<description>The pursuit of good climbing, fun friends, and thought provoking rantings.</description>
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		<title>Rock Climbing, Diablo Canyon, NM</title>
		<link>http://blog.climbergirl.com/2009/05/25/rock-climbing-diablo-canyon-nm/</link>
		<comments>http://blog.climbergirl.com/2009/05/25/rock-climbing-diablo-canyon-nm/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 25 May 2009 20:58:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>climbergirl</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Rock Climbing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Diablo Canyon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[NM]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Santa Fe]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.climbergirl.com/?p=1505</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[ 
On May 25th, we woke up, and had breakfast.  Everybody packed up their items, and there was a search for sleeping bag bags.  Since we were all camped out in the condo, several bags got misplaced.  It was amusing. 
I was hoping to climb for half a day, before Dennis &#038; [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/18548168@N03/3577443680/" title="Diablo Canyon by fightgravity4evr, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3330/3577443680_f6da448289_m.jpg" width="240" height="180" alt="Diablo Canyon" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/18548168@N03/3576640755/" title="Dylan Finishes Onsight of Class Act (5.10****) by fightgravity4evr, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3414/3576640755_261007c489_m.jpg" width="180" height="240" alt="Dylan Finishes Onsight of Class Act (5.10****)" /></a></p>
<p>On May 25th, we woke up, and had breakfast.  Everybody packed up their items, and there was a search for sleeping bag bags.  Since we were all camped out in the condo, several bags got misplaced.  It was amusing. <span id="more-1505"></span></p>
<p>I was hoping to climb for half a day, before Dennis &#038; I had to head back up to Denver.  The half day we climbed the previous day was not sufficient.  So, Dylan was a nice host, and took us out for a second day at Diablo Canyon.  The rest of the crew headed out for some traditional green chile breakfast food.</p>
<p>The weather was perfect.  FINALLY!  </p>
<p><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/18548168@N03/3576639359/" title="Dennis &amp; Dylan at Early Wall by fightgravity4evr, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3366/3576639359_8f341ea251_m.jpg" width="240" height="180" alt="Dennis &amp; Dylan at Early Wall" /></a><br />
We arrived at the Early Wall Crag.  We climbed Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs (5.8).  It was a good warm-up, and not an obvious climb.  The hand holds are all just a wee bit different than what you expect, which I think adds an extra dimension to the climb.</p>
<p>After the warm up, we went in search of a climb Dylan had is eye on&#8230;Class Act (5.10a****).  We found it, and Dylan charged upward.</p>
<p>Here&#8217;s Dylan clipping the first bolt:<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/18548168@N03/3576639735/" title="Dylan Starting Class Act (5.10****) by fightgravity4evr, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3609/3576639735_4435da0a3f_m.jpg" width="180" height="240" alt="Dylan Starting Class Act (5.10****)" /></a></p>
<p>Here&#8217;s Dylan at about Halfway:<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/18548168@N03/3577444804/" title="Dylan on Class Act (5.10****) by fightgravity4evr, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2476/3577444804_374857a514_m.jpg" width="180" height="240" alt="Dylan on Class Act (5.10****)" /></a></p>
<p>A Tricky Move:<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/18548168@N03/3577445204/" title="Dylan Contortionist on Class Act (5.10****) by fightgravity4evr, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2473/3577445204_b6dc27fa12_m.jpg" width="240" height="180" alt="Dylan Contortionist on Class Act (5.10****)" /></a></p>
<p>Climbergirl at the Start of Class Act:<br />
 <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/18548168@N03/3577445602/" title="Clare Cranking Class Act (5.10****) by fightgravity4evr, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3335/3577445602_3d59cf4d0e_m.jpg" width="180" height="240" alt="Clare Cranking Class Act (5.10****)" /></a></p>
<p>Can you say, &#8220;High Step&#8221;?<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/18548168@N03/3576641451/" title="Clare High Stepping Bottom Crux on Class Act (5.10****) by fightgravity4evr, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3663/3576641451_7082d9614a_m.jpg" width="180" height="240" alt="Clare High Stepping Bottom Crux on Class Act (5.10****)" /></a></p>
<p>Happy Times!<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/18548168@N03/3576641849/" title="Clare Past the First Crux on Class Act (5.10****) by fightgravity4evr, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3561/3576641849_36d68c25f5_m.jpg" width="180" height="240" alt="Clare Past the First Crux on Class Act (5.10****)" /></a></p>
<p>After doing these couple climbs, we realized we were just about out of time.  So sad to have to leave early!  But, we had a 6 hour drive ahead of us, and we had to get back to our cats.</p>
<p>This is what they like to do when we leave them alone for a long weekend:<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/18548168@N03/3577446592/" title="The Cats Were Left Alone 4 Days... by fightgravity4evr, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3554/3577446592_bdf87b5892_m.jpg" width="240" height="180" alt="The Cats Were Left Alone 4 Days..." /></a></p>
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		<title>Diablo Canyon, Santa Fe, NM</title>
		<link>http://blog.climbergirl.com/2009/05/24/diablo-canyon-santa-fe-nm/</link>
		<comments>http://blog.climbergirl.com/2009/05/24/diablo-canyon-santa-fe-nm/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 25 May 2009 03:13:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>climbergirl</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Rock Climbing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Social Event]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Diablo Canyon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[NM]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Santa Fe]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.climbergirl.com/?p=1499</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
On May 24th, we got up and headed out for Diablo Canyon.  We left for the crag in two cars, here&#8217;s to carpooling!  Ann, Dylan, Kate, Mark, and Olivia piled into one Subi while Doug, Zack, Dennis &#038; I piled into another.  In about 30 minutes, we were off pavement and winding [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/18548168@N03/3577411156/" title="Clare &amp; Dennis at Pullout for Diablo Canyon by fightgravity4evr, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2476/3577411156_bbc4c199e5_m.jpg" width="240" height="180" alt="Clare &amp; Dennis at Pullout for Diablo Canyon" /></a><br />
On May 24th, we got up and headed out for Diablo Canyon.  We left for the crag in two cars, here&#8217;s to carpooling!  Ann, Dylan, Kate, Mark, and Olivia piled into one Subi while Doug, Zack, Dennis &#038; I piled into another.  In about 30 minutes, we were off pavement and winding around gravel corners on the way to the canyon.  <span id="more-1499"></span></p>
<p><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/18548168@N03/3577413374/" title="Dennis at the Winter Wall by fightgravity4evr, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3567/3577413374_15c8b05979_m.jpg" width="240" height="180" alt="Dennis at the Winter Wall" /></a></p>
<p>We arrived at the pullout, only to see piles of trash.  Apparently, locals don&#8217;t value the place as much as we do!  I hoped that somebody would do the right thing, and come back for their bags of trash.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/18548168@N03/3577412018/" title="Climbing Posse at Winter Warmth Wall Diablo Canyon by fightgravity4evr, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2459/3577412018_ccdcceb0e7_m.jpg" width="240" height="180" alt="Climbing Posse at Winter Warmth Wall Diablo Canyon" /></a></p>
<p>As we walked to the crag, the skies continued to cloud up, and I was hoping we could get in at least a couple pitches&#8230;As I roped up, I felt a drop or two (oh no!).  I looked at Dylan, &#8220;What do *you* think?&#8221;.  </p>
<p>He said what I felt in my heart&#8230;we should give it a shot!  Even if we have to leave a beaner, at least we made the attempt!</p>
<p>With that in mind, I scurried up Post Moderate (5.9+).  I went as fast as I could, not really allowing myself to relax or enjoy the moves.  I was a bit sad because Post Moderate actually goes up 12 bolts, but I stopped after the 8th/9th one, because I was concerned about the weather.  I was hoping everybody would be able to climb before the clouds opened up&#8230;so that was in the back of my mind.</p>
<p>Kate Confidently Strides up Post Moderate:<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/18548168@N03/3576609035/" title="Kate Climbs Post Moderate (5.9) by fightgravity4evr, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3636/3576609035_c67e721f7b_m.jpg" width="240" height="180" alt="Kate Climbs Post Moderate (5.9)" /></a></p>
<p>As I put up Post Moderate, Dylan flew up Hell Boy (5.8+), passing me on the way to the anchors. </p>
<p>Here&#8217;s Zack Mastering Hell Boy:<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/18548168@N03/3576608527/" title="Zack Climbing Hell Boy (5.8+) by fightgravity4evr, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3353/3576608527_a5bbc0d6da_m.jpg" width="180" height="240" alt="Zack Climbing Hell Boy (5.8+)" /></a></p>
<p>I came down from the climb, and joined forces with Dylan.  We went over to do Naked Lunch (5.10a), a 140 foot arete with 15 bolts!  Dylan completed the climb, in style.  Then, I launched up it, trailing a rope, so we could rappel off the top.  As I lowered, the weather made it&#8217;s final step towards deterioration, and we had thunder &#038; lightning displays.  </p>
<p>Here&#8217;s Ann, before the weather went sour:<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/18548168@N03/3577412722/" title="Ann Ready to Climb in Diablo Canyon by fightgravity4evr, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3365/3577412722_8aa537fbf0_m.jpg" width="240" height="180" alt="Ann Ready to Climb in Diablo Canyon" /></a></p>
<p>And Mark, gearing up to climb:<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/18548168@N03/3576607797/" title="Mark Hanging out with Olivia in Diablo Canyon by fightgravity4evr, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3627/3576607797_6991f127cd_m.jpg" width="240" height="180" alt="Mark Hanging out with Olivia in Diablo Canyon" /></a></p>
<p>Everybody quickly packed up and headed for the canyon floor.</p>
<p>As we were walking down, two young ladies, walking a dog, passed us.  &#8220;Have you ever been up the canyon?&#8221; they asked.  </p>
<p>We had just spent the morning climbing at the mouth of the canyon.  And, since they asked, I became curious about climbs within the throat&#8230;&#8221;No, I replied, we&#8217;ve just been climbing&#8221;.  </p>
<p>In response to my casual answer, they strongly urged us to explore the inside, stating that the canyon was beautiful, and we&#8217;d really be missing out if we didn&#8217;t go explore&#8230;</p>
<p>Boy, did I take the bait!!!  So, we walked quickly up the canyon, dodging large drops of water from the thunderstorm.  I hoped what we were about to see was worth getting drenched by the sudden downpour!</p>
<p>As we rounded the bend, a strange apparatus confronted us.  It looked like a modern rendition of Salvador Dali&#8217;s <a/ href="http://arkivi.peshkupauje.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/salvador_dali_elephants_postcard_1.jpg">Elephant</a> painting.  The desert setting, with this large metallic grey object, and bright red shiny fabric blowing in the breeze, all came together in a puzzling way.  </p>
<p><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/18548168@N03/3577413930/" title="Trickster's Ice Cream Contraption by fightgravity4evr, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3603/3577413930_ae0447bcb1_m.jpg" width="240" height="180" alt="Trickster's Ice Cream Contraption" /></a></p>
<p>As I approached, I noticed solar panels and a computer monitor &#038; keyboard.  I said out loud, &#8220;I wonder what this is for?&#8221;.  </p>
<p>Just then, the owner/operator came up to us.  He was holding a video camera and asked to film us.  </p>
<p>Turns out, <a/ href="http://tricksterproject.wordpress.com/">Duane McDiarmid</a>, an Experimental Artist &#038; prof at Ohio University, has built this contraption as a way of delivering ice cream to folks in desert environs.  It&#8217;s free, and he is collecting names &#038; times people visit the contraption.  </p>
<p>I am not sure what *other* data he is collecting, but the whole thing was quite amazing.  I really enjoyed having the popsicle after several hours of exertion, and it was totally neat seeing a self sustaining ice cream cooler in the desert!</p>
<p>After the ice cream, we all headed back to Santa Fe.  On the way back home, we stopped off at a local brewery, and sampled some of their finest.  We then went back to the condo, where we broke out the board &#038; card games.  I enjoyed the high paced card game, Dutch Blitz.  Thanks Ann!</p>
<p>The next day was the last day of the long weekend, and I was sad for it to be ending.  Especially, since I was having so much fun with friends!</p>
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