The following post was written by Roy, a great guy and a serious Movie Buff. Encyclopedia movietannia!!! Great write-up, so I ganked it but inserted a couple paragraphs to make it easier to read.
Clare, Dennis, Charles, Barry and Roy climbed at New Jack City on Friday, 07 April 2006.We got away about 0730 and were climbing by 0930. We started on Sunshine Face and climbed all three climbs there – Sunshine Superman, 5.9, Sunny Side Up, 5.8, and Good Day Sunshine, 5.10b. We all did all right there; Clare led the 10 to the last bolt and ran out of gas; the rest of us TR-ed it; Barry led the 9, as did Clare; Barry, Clare and Roy all led the 8, I think. We TR-ed everything else.
We then moved to The Dude Ranch for a royal spanking. We spent an interminable amount of time with the “guidebook” marching back and forth trying to match the climbs with the beta and finally saw that one of the climbs has been removed. These climbs are scary enough so that you want to get it right. We decided to go for the three 5.10b’s on the left side. Consensus was, Holy Guacamole! Really tough for the grade, even by Gorge standards. Clare would have on-sighted the one on the left except a hold broke off and she took a fall. Finished it off with style though. Roy, Charles, and Barry TR-ed it.
Barry attempted the middle one and backed off after several attempts on the start. He led the rightmost one after some hanging and a fall or two. Clare TR-ed it; Roy, never got off the ground. One of he harder walls we’ve seen at NJC.
Barry took off for Victorville and some business at this point; the rest of us finished up at Raven Rocks on Taylor Made, 5.8; Clare and Roy led it. From there we headed to Ridgecrest and Casa Corona; we were joined by Mary, and George and had a good time at dinner. Outstanding weather, climbing, and company.”