Kay, Dave, Clare, and Wesley on the Summit of Windom Peak
Dave, Wesley, Clare, and Kay near the Summit of Sunlight Peak
For the CMC Centennial Celebration, we attempted to summit all 4 of the Chicago Basin 14’ers in one day. We made it within a few hundred feet of Eolus and had to turn back to camp. However, we did manage to back Windom and Sunlight, which was a great success. The following pictures are from the efforts of our fantastic day in Chicago Basin!
An extra special thanks to Dave for being such a gentlemen and offering a helping hand as I jumped off of Sunlight. That was a leap of faith which I was not quite ready to take without a spot from a friend!
Alpine Start at 4:10am
Wesley at 5am at 12,000 ft
Dave crossing a stream about an hour into our hike.
Dave assisting Kay as we get to the steeper sections up Windom’s slope. This was taken at 6:50am. Almost 3 hours into our hike.
Wesley enjoying the sunrise on the slopes of Windom Peak.
Eolus and North Eolus from near the top of Windom
Sunlight from the top of Windom. Taken at 7:50am.
Wesley on Summit of Windom
Here I am having a blast on Windom. It’s got to be one of my favorite scrambles, so far!
Sketchy scramble down Windom’s North side, on the way to Sunlight. We had to take a lot of precaution coming down the gully. More than one time, we set off mini-landslides. I had everybody pair up with a partner and we took turns going down the steep slopes. It was a bit scary at one point, but we all worked together and figured it out.
A fast party of two youthful gents made their way down the 4th-easy 5th class slabs to our left (on the way down). They stopped a few times to ask for our advice. Their way was steeper, being on slabs; but featured more solid rock!
We descended just to the left of the khaki colored streak!
Climbing up to Sunlight
Dave searching for a way up Sunlight. This was not the way we ended up going, this was the wrong window…
From a shelf, we saw this wide crack and mini chimney and with a bit of 4th class scrambling we went up it. This is the way you want to go…
Dave making the 4th class moves.
When you get to the top of that off width crack/chimney, you get to another ledge. Go straight and then turn right when you run out of ledge. You will see the following window…
This is the right window! This photo of Dave was taken at 11:40am, after 7.5 hours of hiking! Below is the picture he took of me climbing through the window.
Dave was the first to go scrambling up to the summit of Sunlight. He stood up straight on top of the summit, totally jubilant! I was thoroughly impressed. Dave is a true mountain man! Here’s a picture of him, taken with his camera by Wesley, jumping off the summit of Sunlight Peak. Keep in mind the exposure around here is phenomenal. One false step and it is very likely going to be your last.
Here’s a picture of me surveying the best way to go up Sunlight. I decided to climb up the slabby ramp to the summit. Going down that way was a bit too scary though, so I decided to jump off the same boulder Dave did…I needed some help before I made the jump though. Dave held out his hand and I gratefully took it. With one guiding hand, I was able to summon the courage to leap. The next two pictures are courtesy of Dave.
I did not have the courage to stand. I blame the rational thinking…what would the group do if I fell? I was, in fact, the trip leader…so I felt like it was a decent enough excuse to stay safe in a seated position.
Here’s Kay near the Summit of Sunlight
We left Sunlight and headed back down towards the Twin Lakes. When we got near the lakes, I contacted Dennis on the radio. It was great to hear his voice. He was hanging out having a late lunch at the lakes and was happy to see we made it safely down from Windom and Sunlight.
By that time it was getting late, it was around 2pm. An ascent of Eolus and North Eolus seemed dubious at this hour, considering local weather trends. We took a half hour lunch break at the lakes and then pressed on. Who knows, maybe we could squeeze them in…it was worth a shot.
Here is a look at what was ahead, as we were ascending Eolus. Taken at 4pm.
Here’s Kay giving it her all, up high on the slopes of Eolus.
Unfortunately, we had to turn around at 5:30pm. I didn’t think it was smart for us to press on, having to go over the catwalk at the end of the day with fatigue washing over us. I made a decision for us to turn around, it was a hard call to make, but since it was a club trip and I was responsible for the health and well being of the group it was the rational thing to do.
We were all saddened by the decision. I knew as soon as I made it, that Dave would wake up at 4am the next morning and bag Eolus and N. Eolus prior to making the train out. His goal of bagging all the 14’ers in one summer would be realized and he would be happy. Wesley and I are young enough that we will have no problem fitting in another trip into the gorgeous Chicago Basin. And, I figured the mountain would be there for Kay, as well, whenever she wants to take another stab at Eolus and N. Eolus.
The Durango and Silverton Train
View Towards Silverton from the train.
Wesley On the Train
Clare and Dennis On the Train
Dave After Completing the CO 14’ers in one Summer!
Foot Dangle
In the end, I believe I made the right call to forego Eolus and North Eolus. I’m happy we all returned home safely and had the opportunity to participate in the Centennial Celebration of the Colorado Mountain Club. Climbing Windom and Sunlight Peaks in the Chicago Basin was a huge contribution to the efforts of the club, in climbing the Centennials during the Centennial year!
Tags: Centennial Celebration, Centennials, Chicago Basin Peak Bagging Extravaganza, CMC, Eolus Peak, Mt. Windom, Sunlight Peak