Colorado Mountain Club Canyoneers
Michael Rigging his Rappel into Wife 3
Becca In Middle of Multi-Stage Rappel
Jill Playing Peek-A-Boo!
On Saturday, I led a Colorado Mountain Club canyoneering trip to explore The Wives of Capitol Reef National Park. There were three other CMC trip leaders in the mix, so we were bound to have a successful day.
Thank you to Bluu Gnome for the beta and insightful comments regarding these canyons! The beta from bluu Gnome, waypoints, maps, etc, is spot on!
After scouting out the area the day before, I determined we should start with Wife 3 and then do Wife 5.
We weren’t able to locate the top of Wife 5, as the terrain was a bit confusing and the GPS point for the top was either entered wrong or I forgot to enter it! After hunting around a bit and having a lengthy discussion about the weather, we decided to go for Wife 4 instead.
As four of our most proficient members descended into Wife 4, the rest of us scrambled down to meet them at the end. The weather at the top looked a bit sketchy, so this strategy made sure that they could travel down canyon faster and the rest of us could be outside the canyon in case something happened.
Reunited at the bottom of the Wives, we headed back to the campgrounds. We got lucky with the weather in that it never rained, more than a few sprinkles, and the cloud cover moderated the temperatures. Later that night, we enjoyed a camp fire, with Michael strumming his guitar, and conversation flowing almost as freely as the brewskies.
Here we are about 15 minutes hike, above the Fruita Campground. It is a steep, but short, climb to access the base of the Wives.
The Wives Access Canyon. All the wives drain into this Canyon, on the right side (as you are entering the canyon). It took us about 30 minutes to hike here, from the Fruita campground.
Fred leading the way to the top of the Wives. Here we are walking across the red streaked sandstone. The ascension, is to the left of the Betrothed (while standing in the access canyon looking upcanyon).
Mike bouldering en route to Wife 3. There is a little cairn at this spot.
Erin throwing the rope into Wife 3
Michael and Candace stayed behind to pull the rope up, once the rest of us had descended. While it was nice of them to stay behind, the original plan was to hike back up and retrieve it, prior to doing the next canyon.
Here are a couple pictures of Michael and Candace enjoying their hike down, while we are in Wife 3.
Okay, back to Wife 3!
Erin goes first. It’s quite the crazy rappel. 200 feet of free hanging goodness. In this picture, she is literally on the edge of a vast abyss.
Jill discussing rappel techniques to Candace
Becca and the huge rappel tree above Wife 3.
Michael capturing the big rappel into Wife 3. Note the clouds building in the skies! This made me a bit nervous.
Michael loading his figure 8 for the 200 ft single strand rappel. I would not recommend using a figure 8 for this rappel, without a backup! It is difficult to control the descent speed.
Here I am watching Jill rig her rappel. We double checked all the rappels before the person launched over the edge!
Jill about to take the plunge!
Becca at the start of the rappel!
Becca Floating down Wife 3
Jill giving a very attentive fireman’s belay
Fred launching into Wife 3
Fred, about 80 feet off the ground.
Becca and Jill descending Wife 3. Behind them, is the entire 200 foot rappel! It started above the black streaks to the right of the notch!
Erin and Michael waiting for the rest of the group to catch up. Our next obstacle, a 35 foot down climb, is just ahead.
Erin in the middle of the 35 foot down climb. Erin descended between the chockstone rock and where we were standing.
While, Jill chimneyed to the chockstone, stood on the chockstone, and then down climbed from there (See the next picture). Jill was given a belay from a meat anchor, as back up in case she slipped.
Jill down climbing from the far side of the chockstone.
After the 35 foot downclimb, the canyon narrows a bit. It is a short walk to the next rappel. In this picture, you can see Erin at the far end, rigging the next rap.
Now, I’ve walked down to Erin and I’m looking back at the 35 ft down climb. You can also see our 200 ft rappel, in the background!
Erin about to throw the rope into Rappel #2. The gash you rap through is directly in front of her. It’s a sharp left as you approach this bit!
Rappel #2, with the rock protrusion above and to the right.
This rappel has a bit of a tricky start. There is a large rock protrusion, which makes it awkward to start the rappel standing up. The best idea, to avoid rope dragging over the edge of rock, is to sit down, turn around, drop a foot or two and then get into a good rappelling stance. As I will demonstrate with pictures…
Fred squeezing through while on rappel. You can see his backpack hitting the protrusion. It’s really awkward and, unless the anchor is extended further so as to eliminate the rope sliding over an edge of rock, not recommended.
A better way to rappel #2:
Jill sits down first.
Then, she turns around.
Then she raps.
By starting from a seated position, she avoids rubbing the rope against the rock, she doesn’t hit her head or pack on the protrusion, and she gets down faster. Happy and smart, Jill!
Erin in the middle of rappel #3, the multi-stage rappel. Supposedly, there is a downclimb alternative, but we all opted for the rappel.
Fred Ready for Rap #3
Candace taking pictures from Bottom of Wife 3. It was nice to have friends waiting at the bottom!
Climbergirl exiting Wife 3
The rest of the pictures are taken at the end of Wife #4. The bottom of Wife #4 is a great spot to practice high-stemming. It’s narrow, but the walls are featured. So, it’s easy to get 15 feet off the ground, but feel confident that you’re not going to slip!
Michael Selfie!
Candace walking along the bottom of Wife 4, before we tried high stemming.
Jill, about 10 feet off the ground. Fun!
Jill investigating downclimb options for the rest of our team. In a matter of about 30 minutes, they descended the last big downclimb of Wife #4. By the time they reached us, Jill had already scoped out some options for them, so things went smoother.
Candace and I highstemming in Wife 4
Tags: Canyoneering, Capitol Reef National Park, CMC, The Wives, UT