Owens River Gorge-Trip Report
Upper ORG and Evan
Dennis, Tim, and Greg.
On Friday morning, Dennis & I met Greg, Evan, Matt, and Tim at the Upper Gorge pullout. Actually, we were 20 minutes late (a snaffu at Schat’s) but at least we had sandwhichs for everbody! On the hike down into the gorge, we caught up with Evan and Greg as they approached the “All You Can Eat Wall”.
For the first trip up to ORG (since before the summer), I had a very decent climbing day. I didn’t do a large volume of climbs, but I pushed myself on lead with some respectable onsights. The climbs we did were a lot of fun.
To start the day, I got on Step Right Up (5.8**). Fun climb, steep last half, with a crack to boot! Very well protected. Dennis got to the top, with one small slip on the way up.
Next up was Cinderella (5.8*****) Love this climb. It was a blast, a long climb with just about every kinda move on the way up. Bulges, cracks, pockets, and hip scums! All who did this climb agreed, it is the jem of this crag.
Matt flying up Carnubiator.
Clare with a strong lead attempt
Then came Carnubiator (5.10a-if you’re tall 5′8″+**) If you’re short, you can’t move off of the third bolt using the easy right foothold. I had to step my feet up high (so I looked like a froggie), and then undercling the snot out of this small nubb. It was a move I didn’t want to commit to when I was on lead. So, I came down. After watching what Tim did, I was convinced of what I had to do. On TR, I made the move, and it was stout. Very balsy move for 5.10a (wink wink nudge nudge).
Strong lead by Tim. Strong follow by Evan.
After these three climbs, we headed down to the Gorgeous Towers area. What a pretty hike! A coven of foreigners were lost wandering around, and we helped them out several times. They had a guidebook, but apparently that wasn’t enough 8^) Greg & Evan decided they were done for the day, so they headed back to the cars.
Down at Gorgeous Towers, Tim put up Gorgeous (5.10a*****) while I muscled my way up Giveaway(5.9*****). By this time, dark clouds were starting to form and a forboding thunderclap sounded in the distance. The rock was very chilly-and so we almost went across the way to the Elbow Room area. But, we decided to go for the glory.
Dennis sussing out the bottom sequence on Giveaway.
I didn’t get the onsight of Giveaway-bummer-but at least I made it. (I grabbed a draw once to make a clip down low-2nd bolt?), and up high when the thunder was crashing I lost my concentration so I took a quick hang. It’s NOT what the name implies.
The large crack to the right of the arete is much easier(I tried it on TR), and we noticed bolts going up (but it’s not in my guidebook) and I couldn’t see the anchors so we didn’t do it.
After Giveaway, I TR’d Gorgeous, by now the dark clouds were ominous, any moment it looked like it would start dumping. Not a good time to try for a redpoint! Anyways, I got it clean on TR, and it was a much better performance than what I had done 2.5 years ago. It went pretty smooth, and I’m sure next time I will be on the sharp end.
After swapping routes, Tim & I were still thinking we’d like to do one more lap before calling it quits. So he did Gorgeous again while I tried the alternative crack to the right of Giveaway. By this time, it was starting to spit down water and so we both climbed fast. I beat Tim (it was a race) even though he didn’t go all the way to the top. Fun!
By the way, Matt did both of these routes on TR, and I don’t believe he took a hang on either one. Hats off to Matt. And also Dennis for giving his all on Giveaway. Great effort by both those guys!
When we got back to the vehicles, we were informed it took us 25 minutes to hike from Gorgeous Towers. Greg & Evan had been watching us climb using binoculars. Fun stuff. We chatted for a bit about the day, and then decided to hit up Amigo’s for dinner on the way back home.
Dinner was great, I had a monster of a hamstring cramp which startled everybody, but other than that it was uneventful. Oh, and several of us dropped off shoes at The Rubber Room to be resoled. Dennis & I went to Wilsons. I need thick winter climbing pants, but had no luck finding some that fit. I did however, enjoy a chat with Sarah (Wilson’s employee), a superbly nice hard core mountaineering, running, climbing, skiing afficianodo. We had a nice conversation, and then Dennis & I drove all the way back home.