New Jack City – Trip Report

On Friday, Dennis & I met up with Pond Specialist and climbing enthusiast Paul for some NJC climbing. I met Paul while waiting in line at a close-out sale at Copeland’s Sporting Goods. Turns out that among his many talents is a penchant for climbing-and a keen interest in improving as a leader.

So, a few weeks after the store introduction, we met him at the IHOP in Barstow. It was friggin cold outside, so we decided to wait an hour while the rock warmed up. (It was a balmy 37 degrees when we arrived at 9am!). We chit chatted for awhile before heading off to climb.

When we got there, it was much much warmer (46 degrees). I wanted to climb in the sun, so we started on Taylor Made (5.7). I put it up and then pulled the rope. Paul led it with no problems, and then Dennis Cleaned. And, that was the way things typically went for the rest of the day. After that, we climbed Route 66 (5.9-although I think it’s more like 5.10-). Next up was Welcome to NJC (5.10a). Paul had a couple good falls on this one before he figured out the crux at the top, but he had a superb time on the climb!

About this time, the breeze was starting to get to me. A couple of LA climbers recommend we go over to the Sunnyside crag. It was very warm over there, and I was forced into tee-shirt mode.

At Sunnyside, Paul put up Fun In The Sun (5.9). FITS is a great dihedral climb. The climb looks a bit harder than it is-but the holds are in just the right spot to make it FUN!!!

After that climb, I took a stab at Chick Flakey (5.10c). The onsight was unfortunately avoided when I got the foot sequence backwards up top (BUMMER!). It will be a very rewarding redpoint next time that’s for sure!!! I also would like to try the other 5.10s at that wall, as they all seem well protected and fun. Paul tried his hand at Chick Flakey but he was also rejected up high (taking a couple of small falls). But, we both agreed that this was a very Fun and challenging route.

The sun was starting to go down at this point, and the temps were dropping rappidly. My tummy muscles were fatigued from the couple days of snowboarding and from the steep climbing we did-so I opted to call it a day. Around 4:30pm we packed up and went back to the car. Can’t wait to get out climbing again soon! Next trip planned for Jan. 2nd. Woo-hoo!

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