New Jack City – Trip Report

Paul on Fun In The Sun 5.9 Walter stemming Fun In The Sun 5.9 Clare New Climbergirl at base of FITS 5.9

The Climbers: Walter, Paul, and yours truly
The Crags: Sunnyside, Raven Rocks, Boy Scout Rock
The Climbs: Fun In The Sun (5.9) & Gold Finger (5.10c)
Decaf (5.10a??) & Tough Choices (5.10c)
Make A Way (5.10b), & Reaching Rayane (5.9)
The Crowd: Three other dudes from LA
The Clouds: A Teensy Wee Bit
The Clothes: T-Shirts & 3/4 length pants OR tube tops & daisy dukes!

On Friday, I drove Charlie out to Inyokern to meet up with Walter. I took my time getting ready, I wanted to look good for the camera 8^) So, I braided my hair and put on my green Munchkin outfit including my new Dr. Jungle tank top. I was redpoint ready.

We met Paul at the parking lot of Raven Rocks, at about 9:40am. By 10am we were climbing. Started out on Fun In the Sun. Walter & I have it pretty much nailed by now. Paul did great, he battled through the crux section and had a good time. Paul started leading as of months ago, and he’s got the pedal to the metal!

After that, I wanted to get my Redpoint of Gold Finger. So we wandered over to the base of the climb.

Walter working Gold Finger Walter Nailing the Crux of Gold Finger 5.10C

Walter wanted a shot at the RP too, so he fired up first. He cruised the route until the crux up high. Lacking the initial gumption to go for it, he paused (I don’t remember if there was a fall or just a scheduled break)… After a microsecond, he blasted through the crux and on up to the anchors. What a great send, good effort. He’ll get the RP next time for sure!

Paul Gold Finger 5.10c Start Paul middle of Gold Finger 5.10c Paul High on Gold Finger 5.10c

Next up was Paul. He gave it his all, and was thwarted down at the lower crux, and again upon reaching the bottom segment of the upper crux. He decided to wait for another time to complete the route, and came down after the 4th bolt. Very good effort, it’s a tricky climb to flash because it’s got some strange moves.

My turn. The moment I’d been waiting for was finally here. It had been a week, and I was thinking about it the whole time. Was I going to do it, or would it have to wait another day?

Walter had done a more direct line up to the 3rd bolt, so I gave that a shot. It was better as far as conserving energy, but since it was different than what I had done before-it kinda shook me up.

By the time I got up to the 4th bolt, I started my normal unfortunate routine of Elvis Leg. I tried in vain to ignore the shaking. Walter said some nice things (what a great belayer!) and Paul took some pictures.

Clare Redpoint Gold Finger 5.10c

I made it to the fifth bolt, walked my feet over the bulge and BAM it was over. I had the bomber handhold, and before the adrenaline hit, I was at the anchors. WHEW, what a rush!

Halfway through Decaf 5.10a Walter looking at the upper crux of Decaf 5.10a Paul Wise-Cracking up Decaf 5.10a

Walter then wanted to do the Decaf route over at Ravens, so we ambled over that a way. He lead it, but narrowly missed the onsight. The holds up high are super sharp and it had been a long time since his last attempt. It is a very stout climb for a 10a (IMO), and has some awkward starting moves. Walter did look solid on it, and actually he made it look easy.

Paul gave it a whack, and ended up bypassing the face moves up high. He ended up following the crack (haven’t we all done this at some point in time?!?). Too bad he didn’t have gear, or he could have better protected himself as the bolts were out on the face! He ended up reaching the anchors with a huge sigh of relief.

New Jack City At It's Finest

Walter recommended we give the Tough Choices climb a try. It’s a short 5.10c way to the right of Decaf.

Clare on Tough Choices 5.10c Clare halfway up Tough Choices 5.10c Clare at crux of Tough Choices 5.10c

I tried for the onsight, but I got scared at the crux. Not wanting to take the short fall, I downclimbed the crux, back to the bolt. After approximately 10 minutes of trying just about every trick I could think of, I figured it out.

*****Beware Beta Spew coming up!*****
It’s a very fun move, sloper holds to a crescent shaped crimper off of a low right foot that you can barely see. Once you get the crimper it’s not over yet, clipping the next bolt is exhillerating, and mantelling above it a challenge. Overall a fun route, I expect to RP it next time.
*****Beta Spew over now!*****

Paul giving Tough Choices a go Paul working every angle of Tough Choices 5.10c

Paul went next, and he tried even MORE things than I did…including a HEEL HOOK. He was amazing, just not letting it get to him. Eventually, he did succumb to the Tough Choices at the third bolt and conceded defeat.

After watching the two of us monkey around on the climb, Walter was a man with a mission. It was not a Tough Choice for Walter…He took the sharp end from Paul, and finished the climb. He did fantastic, and I can see him going for the redpoint in the near future. The little sharp crimpers at the top of this route are just the kind of thing Walter excels at, so he was in high spirits when he got to the top.

To end the day, we went over to Boy Scout Wall and did a couple more climbs. The light was slowly fading as I finished my 7th pitch. By the time Paul got done cleaning Reaching Rayanne, it was pretty much nighttime. LA folks drove up and climbed to the light of their highbeams, and we all remarked at their dedication.

Friday was a great day for climbing. Another 10! Watching Walter and Paul push their limits was an inspiration to me. I had a great dosage of adrenaline on Gold Finger and Tough Choices. Being out there with the guys was SUPER SUPER fun, and even with three on a rope, it was fruitfull.

On the way home, Walter stopped in downtown Barstow at the Del Taco so I could get some food. We got sidetracked, but it was a fun little adventure finding our way back to the freeway. The drive home was soothing, listening to classic rock at a satisfying volume 8^)

Comments are closed.