New Jack City – Trip Report

Mike F. & Walter Roping up for Fun In The Sun Climbergirl & Hunky Hubby Belay Slave Rod & Mike NM Ropeguns

The Climbers: Walter, Mike F., Clare, Dennis, Rod & Mike (both from New Mexico).
The Crags: Sunnyside & Boy Scout
The Climbs: Walk In The Park (5.8), Gold Finger (5.10c), Red Hot (5.12a), Fun In The Sun (5.9), Chick Flakey (5.10c) & Dog Ate the Homework (5.10a), Midway (5.10c), Make A Way (5.10b), Three Giant Steps (5.10a), Reaching Rayane (5.9).
The Crowd: NONE
The Clouds: Scattered
The Clothes: Tee Shirts & Pants (although we wished we had shorts).

I met Rod at a training class a few years back. I’ve been chatting with him about coming out to Cali to climb-along with his coworker Mike. We were finally able to put all that talk behind us, and GET ON SOME ROCK! Heck Yeah.

Rod working the crux of Gold Finger. Rob reaching for the undercling blocks of Gold Finger. Rod battles the bulge of Gold Finger

Turns out Rod lead his first 5.9, first 5.10a, and quite possibly could have lead some of the 5.10b’s (did he?). Look at the above pics of Rod-he’s just cruizin!

And, Mike took great initiative in setting up Red Hot (5.12a). After some monkeying around between bolts-he made it to the top. Much to our chagrin-we didn’t tease him TOO much about his style 8^) But his effort was more authentic than the LA crowds I’ve seen working this route using a Stick Clip to bypass the many little crux’s.

Mike flying up Chick Flakey Battle of the Mikes Mike finishing the last draw of Chick Flakey. Mike Busting First Moves on Red Hot 5.12a Mike on Gold Finger

I think it’s great that these guys were able to come out and climb-and they were sure having a blast. Being stuck with gym climbing during the winter months; they were ready for some real rock action.

Mike F. ascending Gold Finger Mike Making Crux Clip on Gold Finger Mike makes his way to the impending bulge of Gold Finger

Mike F. and Walter climbed together all day. Mike F. was (for the most part) the ropegun and was giving the rock a thorough thrashing. For example, he took a big lead fall on the top of Gold Finger (pulling Walter off his feet). In a show of determination, sticking to the climb and working the upper crux, he got it. Woo-hoo! And, Chick Flakey was a simple diversion to this guy-great stuff there!!!

Walter’s knee did not stop him from climbing hard. He did great on Chick Flakey, and also leading several new routes with no problems. It’s awesome to see Walter attacking these kind of bouldery overhangy routes, RIGHT ON.

Chick Flakey, Come to Papa!!! Walter's got the frosted flake. Walter cranks hard on the flake. Walter Pulling through the crux.

Unfortunately, there are no climbing pics of Climbergirl as of press time. But the reader should know that I had a great day of climbing. I got a redpoint on Chick Flakey (booyah!). I felt really strong on Make A Way, and really enjoyed the bouldery start. And, I had fun downclimb lead on Reaching Rayane (it’s actually more of a challenge than leading up!).

I made lots of progress on Gold Finger. I have it down to one lousy hang. So, next time I should get it since I know the sequence now. Is “four times” a charm? Stay tuned!

I did 7 climbs total (8 if you count the lead downclimb on RR). The frequency of climbs really doesn’t matter as much as the overall FUN FACTOR of the day. I’d rate it a 10, for sure. With Dennis as my belay slave, a great group of guys to climb with, and freaking good weather, what more could climbergirl ask for?!!!?

3 Responses to “New Jack City – Trip Report”

  1. dylan says:

    A tiny bit of jealousy from Colorado, but we’re having fun in the snow. And to be fair, we did see some hardy souls out cragging yesterday…

  2. climbergirl says:

    The split-board episode looked rad, talk about jealousy! The snow season here has been (for the most part) nill. And, Jan was chill-or-ill, so climbing just didn’t materialize.

  3. Walter says:

    Clare, I need to check my camera. I took a few pics but I’m not sure if I got any of you or not. I didn’t take too many. :-(

    Thanks for the great pictures on Chick Flakey. Yeah, I was surprised I got it. I’ll do better once I shed my “winter coat”. (LOL) 😀

    A Great day! Much better than I figured weather-wise and climbing wise.