The day after St. Patrick’s Day, Ted & I went up to ORG. We left Ridgecrest around 7:30 am and had an uneventful drive up to Bishop. When we got to the Central Gorge pullout, there were 4-5 vehicles there, so we were a little concerned about crowds. However, when we walked down into the Gorge, we realized it wasn’t going to be a problem. Luckily people were pretty dispersed, and some were climbing in the sun (while we wanted shade).
I climbed:
Nirvana (5.10a)
Fuedal Beerlords (5.10c) on TR-I passed the crux but opted to come down 2/3 the way through – very pumpy and tricky start, but I was excited to get back to leading!
Orange Peel (5.10c) onsight attempt turned sour when sun blocked clipping holds after the crux moves. Decided to grab sling of draw & clip. After that I took two hangs to reset my brain, grow some balls, etc. then I finished the climb. Redpoint is mine next time!
Hardly Wallbanger (5.10c) did not get the redpoint. Did manage to make crux clip without taking a 25 footer this time, but whimped out and grabbed sling. Took 3 hangs the first time, then 1 hang when I TR’d it.
Trancendance (5.10c or A0) TR’d with a serious hang at the crux. I actually aided through it, couldn’t figure how to reach a small blemish of a hold that was over the lip of this bulge. Grabbed sling and pulled up until I could reach it. A sad way to do it, but the moves after that are way fun, and I’m glad I finished the climb.
Ted climbed Nirvana (lead & downclimb), Expressway (5.11b) (1 time on lead, 1 lap on TR), Hungover (5.11b) (1 Lead, 1 TR), Holocaust (5.10b)-the bottom half, Trancendance. This is to the best of my recollections. I might be off, but if so, just slightly.
Totally killer weather, rad synergy, and humble day for the two of us. Ted gave a great belay, and provided a lot of coaching style encouragement (quite a bit was needed-geesh!).
Sounds like a few good days I’ve had at the gorge, except you’re leading harder – go Clare!