Tuolumne Meadows-West Country

On Wednesday, I left Ridgecrest at 9am for the annual Tuolumne Meadows camping trip. I have to give props to the Runkles for arranging the campsites. Making the phonecalls back in Feb. to reserve the sites, arranging logistics, and having a killer campfire every night at the group site!! They took the guesswork out of the camping trip, and it made everything so much more enjoyable.

OF COURSE, I stopped in Bishop for what seemed like eternity. Shopping for goods at Wilson’s Sporting Goods, Schat’s Bakkery, and Vons. Amazingly at 11am, midweek, Bishop was packed with people!

Heading up to TM along the 395 is a beautiful drive. However, my progress was hampered by a rather grumpy looking CHP who escorted me all the way to the Tioga Pass turnoff. I arrived at the campsite around 2pm, after what was probably the SAFEST 65 miles I’ve ever driven. Walter and I quickly headed off to Stately Pleasure Dome, all psyched to climb West Country.

Since my ankles and toes were still massively sore from playing Ultimate just a couple days prior, I was very happy that Walter would be the designated ropegun. We climbed some slabby high 4th class stuff to the base of the route (a little scary for me), passing some dudes just getting fired up The Great White Book.

The first pitch went fine, Walter opted out of the “poor start” in the guidebook, going straight up the honest way. I thought it was dandy the way he charged up there, and he remembered to protect a traverse move for me, which helped quite a bit. I had no qualms about giving the “poor start” a go, and it went fine at 5.5 ish.

The second pitch is the fun pitch. A 5.7 fingertip layback, with a bit of a slippery move around a right facing corner. Walter protected it beautifully. If I was on the sharp end, I’d put in a couple more pieces, but he was obviously in command throughout this pitch!

The third pitch is slabby 5.5 to 5.7 face climbing with a few (3) bolts. No big surprises, pretty mellow climbing.

The fourth pitch was similar to some of the slab pitches we did on Magic Dragon with one cruxy section before ya get to THE one and only bolt. Walter went up straight and to the right a bit in order to reach the bolt. Whereas I went a little out to the left where there were some features, little scoops for the feet and slopers.

The last bit to top out was fine, Walter gave me a hip belay at my suggestion since I was going quite fast. We topped out after just 1.5 hours of climbing (thanks for the update Walter).

Another young couple were sitting at the top vascillating the way down. We showed them our favorite walk off (a bit longer than the 4th class descent) but faster and much much less scary.

What a superb way to start off this years Tuolumne Trip! I couldn’t have asked for a better warm up climb, it helped me get back in the swing of granite, smearing, and run-outs!!! The view of Tenaya Lake, Half dome, and the sun low on the horizon was our just reward.

Back at camp, I met up with Daryl and Ellen in the site adjacent. We chatted a little, getting caught up on the “how have you beens” and “the climbing agenda” for the rest of the week. I had some garlic rice noodles and some lemon pepper chicken for dinner.

Right as my noodles were done cooking, one of my former bridesmaids (Rachel) and her best buddy (Justine) arrive. They pull up in their silver color sporty coupe, with a sign that reads, “Give good belay!”. I ran to greet Rachel (Big Hug) and arrange for them to stay at the group site with the Runkles, showing them where to park, we chat for 10seconds, and I rush back to finish my noodles.

Later that night, at the campfire, we discuss plans for tomorrows adventure…stay tuned for WEST CRACK on DAFF DOME!!!!!!!!!

2 Responses to “Tuolumne Meadows-West Country”

  1. Walter says:

    Clare,
    we did the actual climb (4 pitches) in 1.5 hours, but it was about 2 hours car to car.
    The third pitch had 3 bolts, the 4th pitch only one! I thought it was on the 4th pitch where you told me you went left and stayed on the arĂȘte.
    I got some pictures of John on it.
    -wdr

  2. climbergirl says:

    Thanks Walter! It’s much harder writing TRs several days and several climbs later…hee-hee. Yep, I saw your pics with John. Cool!