The plan on Thursday was to wake up at a decent time, and leave for West Crack at 9am. We figured we had no control over the crowds at the base, so we might as well get a nice nights rest. Technically, it *is* west facing, so it could possibly be a frigid start; another reason for our luxurious wake up time.
Fellow Climbers…For West Crack, there is NO start time TOO early!!! By the time we got there, at 10:30am, there were 7 people in front of us (on a Thur!). 2 of them were veering off to the climb Blown Away, leaving 5 climber dudes between us and the summit. Nobody came after us. Thus, if inclined, another option is to wait until 2pm, and then you will have the wall pretty much to yourself!
My advice for future West Crackers: Examine the overnight lows. If you are comfortable climbing at the low point for the night, then by all means WAKE UP EARLY. Be there at 6am, better to be 1 or 2 on the route than 4th! Walter started up at 12pm, and had to wait for the next party to clear the belay-I started cleaning at 1pm.
It was annoying to sit around for 1.5 hours. Although, it was *nice* to have time to gobble down my apple, hard boiled egg, and string cheese while watching the dudes in front of us battle through the overhangy crux of the second pitch. It was fun for Rachel & I were watching them like movie critics. Below are pics of us at the start!
The first two pitches are the exciting ones. It is a groovy climbing as there is not much wiggle room (ie there is really only one way to go those first two pitches). The crux on the first pitch was supposed to be getting into the crack once you clip a bolt, but I had more trouble getting to the anchor, it was a balancy tricky little move. It got the attention of Walter too, but Daryl cruised through it (maybe because he’s a bit taller than Walter & I).
The second pitch is the exciting pitch. It starts out with a bouldery sequence of moves, there is a crack you can jam or you can do a gaston (how I did it) or be creative and do something different!
Walter kept his feet in the crack. At one point the rope was wrapped around his right leg, which made me very nervous, but luckily he kept his focus and pulled through the moves without falling. The rest of the pitch is full of more fun bouldery moves, with a very large crack. If you have a 4″-5″ size cam, it would come in very handy on the end of this pitch. Walter ran it out at times 15 feet or so, but there are lots of knobs and holds on the face, so it’s not bad. Exciting stuff, and a fantastic lead by Walter!
By the time I got to the Third pitch, I was amped up to be the leader. The third pitch is a beautiful finger crack, similar (but longer than) the Sixth pitch of White Punks on Dope. I used all of my smaller cams and probably 4 nuts on this pitch. I also used a #3 Cam. I went as far as I could and set up an anchor when I got to a spot where I could put my whole leg in the crack and comfortably stand-it was about 12 feet above the intended belay. It worked out better that way, as Walter was able to go further next pitch.
The pictures below are of me looking back down Daff, Daryl leading the 5th and 4th pitches.
Walter put up the last 2 pitches, it was very hard for me to keep up with him using an ATC, but I managed. The last pitch is quick, we did the 5.5 mantle option which is a fun way to summit the dome. On top, we took some pictures, and I turned around to get some snaps of Rachel making her way up. These pics are all courtesy of Walter, as I used his camera all day!
Clare,
great job on the pictures! I’m glad you took the ones you did.
Yes, I thought the 5.8 move at the top of the 1st pitch (just below the belay) was hard and it was runout. The 5.9 at the bottom seemed easier. I’m still glad it had the bolt, though.
Daryl said he had problems with the 1st move on the 2nd pitch. He said he came down once or twice before he did it. I got the 1st move just fine it was the next, “transition” move I had trouble with. Yes, my bad, about the rope around my leg, but I was jammed in the crack pretty good. I just need to figure out a better technique for that one.
Excellent job on that 3rd pitch! You do great on those long sustained cracks. (Like the one on Fairview). I was happy you led it.
My favorite picture is the one of you and Rachel jumping. That one turned out well.
-wdr