Last year, when I did Triplett with Walter, I didn’t imagine myself ever heading back to Owens Ridge. The trek to the wall is drudgery, taking nearly an hour (unless you’re a stealthy hiker). By the time I get to the wall, my legs are tired and I’m out of breath and I’m hot and I’m miserable. What can I say, I’m a typical lazy climber. Ideally, I’d drive up to the base of the wall, start the climb from the hood of the car and be on my way!
Enough ranting though. Conditions on Monday were perfect. Much cooler than last year when we were there. The walk in was actually pleasant. Walter had just been up there, so there was virtually no routefinding and a LOT of wildflowers made the hike visually pleasing. Before long, we were at “Lunch Rock” taking in some agua and scoping out the routes.
Our gameplan was to climb Dihedral, a three pitch route and then see what else we could fit in. So around 11am I launched up the first pitch. It was the first day I’ve felt healthy since I got sick two weeks ago, so I was very excited about the possibilities.
The first pitch of Dihedral is a very sustained, in your face (slightly overhangy at times), layback crack. Very easy to protect, and good feet once you’re about 20 feet off the ground. The crux is getting up there.
I fought a BATTLE with my nerves, losing at first and having to hang off my gear. I was suffering a mental breakdown of sorts, so once I took a couple hangs and saw that my gear placement was solid, I felt much much better. I’m really proud of myself for hanging in there and getting the route, it is not a trivial pitch. And, for not having ever done it or seen it done-I’m stoked I got it. Major fun, and once I relaxed it was superb climbing.
One of the perks about having Walter as a partner is that he will talk to me as I’m climbing, and it really helps me to get my mind off of all those silly thoughts that enter my head. Walter was awesome as a support through the crux and before I knew it I was cruising the top part and at the anchors!
Walter led the rest of the route, as it is pretty slabby (not my cup of tea!) and we were back at our packs about 3 hours after starting it. At that point, it was 2:15pm and we were looking at options.
We had a bite to eat, some more to drink and scooted over to Right Side of the Block (5.7 R) three short pitches of pumpy short crux climbing, one adrenaline filled slab climbing death pitch, and one really easy ladder climb pitch. Guess which pitches I got?
Yep, Walter gave me all the fun ones. So stoked that he was willing to do that slab o’ death pitch. He was also very excited about my performance on the pumpy stuff.
The highlight of this climb for Walter HAS to be when he was making the moves off the ONE bolt of the 60 foot slab unprotectable pitch and a foothold crumbled to nothing underneath him. I was expecting him to peal off and take at least a 15 footer-but HE HELD ON. Amazing stuff right there.
I was so focused on Walter, I didn’t notice the ants crawling all over me (I was sitting on their home, an old rotted log). So, while Walter was setting his belay I was doing the “Ants in my Pants” dance. Even by the end of the day, I was still flicking Ants off me!
The highlight of Right Side of the Block for me is the undercling move around the block. Pulling that move was quite thrilling, and flat out satisfying. We finished RSOTB in about 2.5 hours. Much better timing than Dihedral.
On the hike out, the sun was setting, and all the desert colors became more vivid. The bunny rabbits were darting all around as we drove out, this summer the coyotes will be very happy! Great way to spend Memorial Day, doing 8 pitches with Walter.
And the best part was coming home to Turkey burgers and Mac N Cheese! “Dinner by Dennis”, it was icing on the cake!!!
Tags: CA, Dihedral (5.7), Granite, Owens Ridge, Ridgecrest, Right Side of the Block (5.7R), Rock Climbing, Traditional
Sounds excellent! I did Right Side of the Block with Bud Gates, and got to do the one-clip slab pitch. Eyiyi! Good overall memories of the route, tho.
Wow Dylan, that is awesome! I wonder if you could do it now, Walter broke off a key foot hold and I broke off a key handhold down lower…that whole pitch is so sunbaked the rock is just flaking right off. Still-awesome job on holding it together Dylan. Did you get to do the part around the block on the next pitch? Or the final pitch? Those were both thrilling.
I did the last pitch too. The way we had it set up, the move right off the belay was the exciting one. 😀
Yes, that last pitch is a doozie for sure. I remember that move, in fact there were three mini cruxes on that last pitch for me. One right off the belay, one in the middle and one pulling into a crack at the end. I was having so much fun on that last pitch! I even did a shoulder smear!