Archive for the ‘Rock Climbing’ Category

Mountaineering – Backpack To Base of Dallas Peak

Friday, August 1st, 2014

High Camp Below Dallas Peak at 11,340 ft
My Cozy Campsite, at 11,340 ft

Dallas Peak Shrouded in Clouds
View of Dallas Peak from Camp

I am a planner. I spend countless hours pouring over details; analyzing and collecting data about mountains. Executing a carefully planned trip to the point of success is a thrill like none other!

However, this summer, I missed an opportunity, big-time!

I was in Ouray and Telluride 7/23-7/27. Then, I drove home to Denver. Five days later, I returned to the San Juans! Why didn’t I just *stay down there*? To suffer an extra 16 hours driving in the car; when I could have been climbing mountains instead…HOW could I miss something so obvious???

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Mountaineering – Teakettle Mountain (13,819 ft), Ouray, CO

Thursday, July 24th, 2014

Teakettle Mountain from Coffeepot
Teakettle Mountain from Coffeepot. The dark gash in the mountain is the Black Gully!

Clare and Potosi Peak
Climbergirl and Potosi Peak

Ever since climbing Mt. Sneffels, in July of 2013, I had a desire to climb the two centennial 13’ers flanking it. To the west of Sneffels, Dallas Peak stands guard while to the east, there’s Teakettle Mountain. Both captured my imagination and so I must climb them!

Bruce the Champion of Teakettle Mountain
Trip Leader, Bruce, on the summit of Teakettle Mountain

When I saw Bruce’s trip posted on the CMC website, I called him immediately. We had a pleasant conversation and we agreed to meet in a climbing gym, prior to the trip. The last section of Teakettle Mountain involves 5th class climbing; so it’s important people understand rope management, basic knots, safety, and climbing. Them gym meet-up went well, so the trip was on!

Trip Participants: Bruce (Leader), Tom, Frank, Meredith, Lisa, Helen, and I

Our Progress:
Leave Yankee Boy Basin TH: 5:10am
Base of Coffeepot: 7:40am
Base of Black Gully: 8:10am
Above Black Gully: 8:25am
Base of 5th Class Pitch: 9:10am
Start Climbing: 9:15am
Finish Climbing: 10:45am
Below Black Gully: 11:30am
Started Awful Scree Descent (We went down the direct route, not up/over Coffeepot ledge): 11:45am
Finished Awful Scree Descent: 12:40pm
Return Yankee Boy Basin TH: 1:30pm

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Rock Climbing – Navajo Peak (Attempt), Indian Peaks Wilderness, CO

Sunday, July 6th, 2014

Navajo Peak and Glacier From Airplane Gully

On Sunday, Doug and I drove up to the IPW to climb Navajo Peak. I was looking forward to the rock climb on Navajo Peak; a moderate route in a beautiful alpine setting. Also, there was the lure of Dicker’s Peck, a tower of rock standing in attention, just waiting to be climbed.

For a variety of reasons, we did not summit: Late start, poor health, poor route finding, bad weather, and crossing a boulder field while wearing crampons. I hyperextended my knee during the crampon bouldering section, and 6 weeks later, it’s still smarting.

We hiked back to the car in a downpour, which just cemented our mutual feelings of utter failure. We vowed to “get it” next time. (more…)

Rock Climbing – CMC Self Rescue Practice

Saturday, April 19th, 2014

Darin Walking Francesco Through a Rescue
Darin walking Francesco through a rescue of Andy

Jen at Self Rescue Practice
Jen, My “Victim”!

Jen Standing Up on the Foot Prusik
Jen practicing ascending a rope, using a prusik.

Tandem Rappelling
A Tandem Rappel

Every year, I like to spend one day reviewing self rescue skills. It is important to practice, at least yearly, or else I forget how to do it. If ever there was a need for these skills, it really should be second nature.

This year, we practiced:
1. Getting “hands free” using a Mule knot
2. Escaping a loaded belay
3. Passing a knot, using prussiks
4. Tandem Rappelling
5. Rappelling to a Victim and “picking them off their line”. Then, rappelling with them down to the ground.

Much thanks to Darin, from Rocky Mountain Rescue, for coaching us through the motions!

Rock Climbing – Spring Storm Over Seal Rock

Sunday, April 6th, 2014

Jen and Clare at Base of Seal Rock
Jen and I are still hopeful to climb. This was when the sky was still clear!

The base of Seal Rock was still covered in snow. The route looked wet in spots, but still possible to climb had the weather remained clear. Unfortunately, upon our arrival to the base of Seal Rock, there were suddenly several little white puffy clouds. Hmmmm, what do we do now?

When climbing on the eastern side of the flatirons, one can’t see the west side. Thus, since many storms come from the west, it can be dangerous to attempt a climb if there is ANY doubt of weather. The Accidents in North American Rock Climbing book is full of people who have been caught in a storm on a flatiron. Wet flatirons are slick and prone to breakage. So, just say no!

While we discussed the risks, we watched in dismay as the small clouds quadrupled in size and started banding together. We decided to forego the climb. We had a nice hike back to the car and we got graupeled on for the last 30 minutes. Whew, disaster avoided. Justified by our smart decision; we climbed at the new climbing gym in Golden where we could be certain of our safety.

Seal Rock Spring Storm
Looking back at Seal Rock and the Spring Storm